The Best Thing Today — Roskilde Viking Ship Museum

August 10, 2016

Sea Stallion from Glendalough. Photo by MJP.

All of my life I have stipulated my last name as ‘Petersen … spelled with an ‘sen’.’  That technique works much of the time, but I eventually adapted to the reality that spelling surprises happen when you are a Petersen.  Like the time when a new Avalon lease was acquired and our paperwork person managed to get the lease contract correct, but the DMV name incorrect.  Petersen/Peterson.

The new Ms. Petersen is as baffled as me about root cases for these anomalies, so we decided to return to the source: a Viking Shipbuilding Museum, at Roskilde.

Viking ship methods - lap cutting by hand. Photo by MJP.
Viking ship methods – lap cutting by hand. Photo by MJP.

This is a museum full of wonder.  A very active team of employees and volunteers are busy explaining what is known about Viking shipbuilding and what is not known.  Essentially, there are no ‘instructions’ for Viking shipbuilding.  This means that all participants attempt to reverse engineer how boats were crafted and, actually, what they looked like.  Historians only know what tools the Vikings had to work with, and what materials existed at the time.  This information, plus a few examples of discovered boats and rough drawings, is all they have to build their working models.

The process is trial and error.  Reconstructions are built, then taken out to sea for trial, then modified and adjusted, then taken thorough that cycle all over again.

Patty sailing. Photo by MJP.

Pat and I sailed on one for a short time and were able to see first hand how the ships are believed to be constructed, and how they would then be taken to sea.  We did just fine on the short excursion.  No one got wet and everyone else in the boat passed the rowing test.

Detailed presentations about building techniques were also explained and demonstrated.  I never expected that Rope Maker was a viable trade, today or in yesteryear.  But in fact, there are artisans who today make rope by hand and, of course, in years gone bye.  The process of winding various materials into a usable rope is best left for the expert.  Eg, someone willing to callous their hands after infinite hours of twisting various fibrous materials into a strong and useful cord.

The day was fun and informational.  All of the staff was highly informed, friendly, and eager to answer questions.

Thumbs up and recommended for all!

Danes themselves have no problem with our ‘Petersen,’ but at end of day we were no more informed as to American mis-spellings as when we started.

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The Best Thing Today — Nordskoven, Kulhuse

August 10, 2016

The best thing today was a rainy walk in the forest of Nordskoven.  We walked through sunshine, mists that glistened the ferns, rain drops as big as dimes — three rain showers.

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Even after the clouds cleared, down came a shimmering tree shower.  When the wind gusted through the tall forest canopy,  with layers upon layers of leaves, each small leaf vessel tipped its cache of water, and down came the droplets through the dappled sunlight.

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Luxuriant ferns graced the forest floor.

Delicate wildflowers — purple, rose and bright yellow — danced across the meadows and skipped along our path.  We were drenched in the fresh scent of grasses, woodland herbs, blossoms and loamy soil.

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The king of the forest is Kongeegen.  He is an ancient oak tree, between 1,500 and 2,ooo years old — and still living.  Small underlings crowd around his massive trunk — probably his progeny, eager to reign, but without a chance.  In a ring around the “konge”, the king of oaks, loyal guardsmen hold back the forest growth and preserve the elder’s right to the sun.

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He alone lives on, longer and luckier than Storkeegen, the revered oak  a short ways away in the same forest.  Storkeegen is only about 800 years old, and ceased producing leaves a few decades ago.

We were alone in the wet woods, paying homage to this marvel.  In contrast,  busloads of people file into Roskilde Domkirke to view the elaborate sepulchral monuments of 39 generations of Danish kings.  One looks at those lifelike marble carvings of the kings lying in stately, dead repose, amidst lavishly ornate displays of wealth and power.  Perhaps each king’s greatest wish was to live on in immortal glory.

Kongeegen simply grows  —  majestically — and outlives the lifetimes of 39 kings.

 

 

 

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The Best Thing Today — August 5, 2016

Copenhagen

Today we met Merete and John, who are Martin’s distant cousins.  We had coffee and Danish desserts at the architectural center overlooking the harbor.   John teaches at the normal school (ages 7-12) and Merete is a school librarian.  They live in a town about 10 kilometers from Copenhagen.

We had coffee and Danish desserts at the architectural center overlooking the harbor.  While we talked, a huge, heavy raincloud delivered its wet load and sailed on out to sea.  By the time we stepped out, the sky was clear!

Martin & Pat See the rain in the distance?
Martin & Pat
See the rain in the distance?

They have invited us to stay at their summer home on the sea.   Such nice people!   You can read about our experiences in this “Danish royal riviera” next week.

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The Best Thing Today — August 4, 2016

Copenhagen

The boat tour of the Copenhagen harbors and canals was today’s favorite experience.  In Kristianshavn, large white yachts docked in front of 18th century Dutch houses.  Some hosted lounging sun worshipers, sipping wine.  Down the center of the canal, kayakers and standup paddle boarders waved greetings to picnickers on the bank.

Kristianshavn
Kristianshavn

One of the islands, Freetown Kristiania, declares its own laws, and many of its inhabitants live on funky houseboats,  A beautiful new pedestrian and bicycle bridge connects Nyhavn with Kristianshavn.  It’s called the Kissing Bridge because the two sides meet in the middle.  Another bridge is composed of circles, with girding rising up like Christmas trees.  We passed up Noma, a restaurant for several years ranked number one in the world, located in an dingy old warehouse.

Kristianshavn
Kristianshavn
Nyhavn boat tour: view from water to castle.
Nyhavn boat tour: view from water to royal residence.
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